Sunday, November 20, 2011

Umani Ronchi 2008 Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne Verdicchio Dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore

This wine is the unoaked but 'serious' older vines verdicchio from Umani Ronchi. While it shows the work, especially in skin & pressing derived phenolics and a drying, chalky finish, it is a satisfying drink. Brought in by Trembath & Taylor, this needs to be served a bit warmer than a full chill to give the fruit a fair chance at expression. The acid profile is all lemon with length and structure delivered by the phenolics & a lick of skin tannin. While the acid suggests chardonnay, the nose and the palate say this is something different. At the recommended retail price of $45, this is worth a look if you have an interest in seeing 'serious' treatment of Italian white grapes. Personally, I prefer verdicchio more directly expressed and focussed on refreshment rather than complexity, but this did drink well with a barbecued pork fillet, roast baby capsicum, couscous and a green salad.
Cork, 14% alcohol.

3 comments:

  1. Hi Paul
    This happens to be one of my favourite wines and I love the way such Italian grapes can be made either crisp or complex. Totally agree on the serving temp, and I usually decant this. Thought it worth pointing out that this doesnt actually have any oak - its all fruit into cement, minimal malo, and extended bottle age. Be good with the pork, and its not very Marche of me, but it goes well with roast chicken.
    Cheers
    Matt

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks for setting me straight on the oak thing, Matt. Had remembered this being mentioned at the AAVWS seminar as oaked and there was a creamy/custard apple texture and taste in the wine I also picked as barrel time, but clearly I got that wrong. I'll amend the note.

    ReplyDelete
  3. No worries, given this blind I'd swear it had oak. But, they pick super ripe and Verdicchio gets this vanilla/nutty thing going on. By the way, the 09 just won Gambero Rosso Italian White Wine of the year, due in 2012!

    ReplyDelete